23 January 2015

Winter Wildlife in 3D and High Definition

Zebra crossing !

I was watching a David Attenborough wildlife programme recently it was the one where the 6 week old zebra with its mum was trying to cross a swollen river  , a raging torrent of a  river populated by grumpy hippos and with lions on the far bank waiting to pick off the tired beasts as they scramble up the bank on the other side. It was shocking,  thrilling and dramatic stuff to watch .

Apart from making  me think how inappropriate the name ‘ zebra crossing ‘ is for  a safe place to cross  anything , I was also reminded that you don’t have to go to the African plains to witness this sort of life and death drama ; it’s going on all around us in the countryside and winter is a great time to witness these events.

Stoat v’s Rabbit

While walking along Wray Castle drive last week ,with some colleagues ,we heard a squeal from the field on the other side of the railings a rabbit was running at top speed towards us with a stoat in hot pursuit . Both rabbit and stoat were apparently oblivious to our presence.

The large rabbit being closely followed by the much smaller stoat with its long slender body and short legs looked a comical mismatch , like a  sausage dog  trying to bring down a red deer stag !

At least this would have been comical if it was a game of tig and not a chase to the death. The stoat  although much much smaller is very capable of bringing down the rabbit and killing it . The two did a figure of eight around us before disappearing back into the field .  We didn’t see the outcome, but let’s just say it can be long and very unpleasant for the rabbit !

Hide and Seek

the sparrowhawk - an acrobatic killer

A unremarkable hedgerow next to Hawkshead village seems an unlikely place for thrilling drama , but just before Christmas I could see a bird of prey giving an impressive acrobatic display  zipping from one side of the hawthorn hedge to the other , flying along at speed  and then darting back , the lack of foliage made it easier to see what was going on . A sparrowhawk , the most agile of birds of prey, was after a blue tit . The blue tit trapped in the hedge was flying along inside, using the thorny branches for protection , the sparrowhawk goading and threatening, trying to get at the tiny bird or scare it out into the open .

This deadly game of hide and seek went on for what seemed like ages , I’m sure it felt longer for the blue tit ,  but was probably over in less than a minute . On this occasion brains won out over brawn as the blue tit stayed put and the sparrowhawk lost interest or was scared off.

Rumble in the jungle

Probably the most titanic struggle that I have witnessed in the wild, while being a National Trust Ranger is that between a Great crested newt and an earthworm,  unlikely sparring partners I’m sure you’ll agree ! This ‘ battle’  took place in a small pond , under torch light,  on Claife Heights some years back ; the ‘rumble in the jungle’ if you like.

in the blue corner

In the blue corner……  the great crested newt the largest of the British newts is an uncommon amphibian, a protected species, with its jagged crest along its back it looks like a mini dinosaur generally 10-14cm long , but pretty fearsome looking , it looks like it can handle itself in a fight !   

in the red corner
 And in the red corner ……… a worm a plump wiggly worm,  not really built for street fighting . Ladies and gentlemen ,place your bets please.

The ‘fight’ started with the newt bothering the worm and quite quickly devouring a third to half of its length , this should have been game over for the worm , but we underestimated the worms instinct for survival and what followed made for  compelling viewing , for several minutes the worm used the only weapon in its arsenal ….the wriggle….. it bucked and writhed for as long as it could, the newt not letting go , the worm tiring, stopped , rested and then started wriggling  again as though its life depended on it and indeed its life did depend on it . After maybe five minutes of this strange wrestling match, an unlikely outcome,  the newt  decided that there were easier ways of getting a meal and the worm, having never given up, broke free, and lived to wriggle another day.  Rocky would have been proud.

So turn off the telly, put on a coat  and get out there this winter. These amazing thrilling spectacles are available for free,  in high definition, in 3 D and with surround sound,  in your back garden, local green space or nearest bit of countryside.

Hawkshead village is worth a visit at any time of year , the Beatrix Potter Gallery in the village re-opens on Feb 14 2015, the Victorian gothic  Wray Castle located 2 miles from Hawkshead re-opens on 21 March 2015 but the grounds are open year round. 

16 January 2015

Step back in time in Little Langdale

It’s hard to avoid the eerie feeling that you’re walking in the footsteps of our ancestors when you cross Slater’s Bridge in Little Langdale.  There’s not a road or modern building in sight – barely a building at all, in fact – and with the worn stone beneath your feet, it’s easy to become lost in time.  Anyone at any point in the four-hundred years since the bridge was built could have done the same thing; gazed around at the same fells, peered down into the same smooth clear water flowing swiftly beneath.  On a misty morning, it’s almost a surprise that a pack-horse doesn’t come clopping over the hill from Birk Howe Farm.
Slater's Bridge in the timeless landscape of Little Langdale.  Photo Amy Askew.
While Slater’s Bridge might be the most iconic old feature in Little Langdale, the whole valley is rich with the signs and scars of centuries of human use, not to mention five legally protected Scheduled Ancient Monuments (SAMs).  

Industrial heritage

Perhaps the most obvious features (although not scheduled) are the quarries which dominate Tilberthwaite and the south-east part of Little Langdale along with their enormous spoil heaps.  Slater’s Bridge is named on a sixteenth century map so it’s thought that quarrying was already taking place here then – this seems likely as the stone for most of the Lake District’s old slate buildings would have come from small local quarries.  The Victorian era brought a full-scale ‘slate boom’ to Coniston and the surrounding countryside as people travelled from all over the country to try their luck in companies of four or five people.  The use of compressed air drills to make holes for blasting enabled exploitation on a huge scale and the creation of giant pits like Cathedral Quarry, Hodge Close and Moss Rigg.  The development of quality bricks brought large-scale slate quarrying to an end, and nature has reclaimed many of the sites – the peaceful valley we enjoy today is a far cry from the Victorian scene of heavy industry with drills ringing, dynamite blasts and the rumble of heavy sleds of slate being dragged along.

Three companies of quarrymen in their shed.  Photo courtesy of Alastair Cameron.
The area is also known for copper mining, and the most remote of Little Langdale’s SAMs is the Greenburn copper mine, tucked between Wetherlam and Wetside Edge, a mile beyond where you have to leave even a 4x4.  The site is huge and lots of the infrastructure for processing the ore is in good enough condition to give an idea of the scale of the operation in this lonely place, while tunnels (now closed) disappear up to 700m into the hillside.  Stone huts, a cavernous pit for a waterwheel, leats for moving water, and the remnants of a tramway are some of the most dramatic evidence of mining from the 1690s through to the late 1800s.

Greenburn copper mine with the wheel pit visible at the front right, looking down Greenburn to Little Langdale.  Photo Ian Taylor, geograph.org.uk
Ancient hamlets

Where Greenburn meets the main valley we step back even further in time.  Two catchily-titled ‘mediaeval dispersed settlements’ are scheduled near Fell Foot Farm.  These date from sometime between 1066 and 1500 and consist of the foundations of buildings and a kiln that is likely to have been used for drying corn; they’re only visible now in the straight lines of giant boulders used for their foundations.  Lots of people in Cumbria lived in these ‘dispersed settlements’ during this period, with villages spread across entire valleys, a house or two in each hamlet, and their occupants sharing open common grazing on the surrounding land. 

Straight lines of giant foundation stones are all that's left of the hamlets.  All the smaller stone would have been scavenged to make more recent walls like the one towards the back of the picture.
The dry stone walls we see today were laid over this landscape during the following few hundred years and you can see the evidence of this ‘layering’ effect where some of them run across the foundations of these settlements.  The more intricate patterns of walls in the smaller fields in the valley bottom were built first as people started to manage larger flocks and herds more intensively and needed places to sort and store them; from 1690 a series of Enclosure Acts then allowed landowners to effectively privatise common land, eradicating the common rights.  The dead straight lengths of wall arcing miles over the fell tops date from this period as landlords marked their territory and controlled the grazing on it.

Please note that there is currently no public access to the mediaeval settlements.

This long, straight wall dividing Great Intake on Low Fell from the fell grazing on Wetherlam is likely to date from one of the Enclosure Acts.

 Vikings and Romans

Tucked away directly behind Fell Foot Farm is the site that speaks most to me – the Ting Moot (AKA Thing Mount/Mound – take your pick).  This terraced rectangle of earth, about the size of a tennis court, was a meeting place that is likely to have been built during the 'Viking' period between about 800 and 1066.  The Norse settlers had a very strong influence in the Lakes that we can see today in place names and words like beck (for stream, from the Norse 'bekkr') and fell (from 'fjall', Norse for mountain).  Courts would have been held at the Ting Moot as well as day to day meetings to administer the affairs of the area.  Little Langdale would have been chosen as this spot is central to the southern part of the region, with access possible over Wrynose Pass from the west and via Ambleside from the south and east; the passes here were a major trade route, and you can just about pick out the route of the Roman road (which the current road follows over the passes) in the field in front of the farm.  Standing on the road by the Ting Moot, with the Roman road in sight and Wrynose disappearing vertiginously behind you, it’s easy to see why this spot would have had such power. You can imagine the importance this route must have had when travelling the Lakes by foot or horse, with the valley opening up impressively below while Castle Howe rises sentinel-like directly above.
The Ting Moot tucked away behind Fell Foot Farm.  The terraced edges are very obvious when you visit.
Speaking of Castle Howe, this is the last of Little Langdale’s scheduled monuments, but unfortunately it seems likely that its history isn’t so compelling.  Although it was scheduled in 2001 as an Iron Age hill fort (based on research from the 1920s), current thinking is that it’s probably not a fort at all - although, as with all archaeology, we can never be certain.  The ditches to the west of the peak, which were originally interpreted as man-made defensive features, are now thought to be natural, and a look at the summit suggests that even if ancient people had created a defensive cordon here, there would be nowhere inside to make buildings or live due to the steep and rocky ground.  Although its human history is in dispute, Castle Howe is a fascinating piece of geology known as a dyke, formed by a plug of lava cooling in a vent from a giant volcano.  It's consequently made from harder rock than the surrounding area so while the rest of the landscape was eroded under the glaciers of successive Ice Ages, these lumps - like Tarnclose Crag and the Langdale Pikes to the north - stand ruggedly proud.     

Castle Howe (on the right) rises above Fell Foot Farm and the Ting Moot, with Greenburn and Wetherlam beyond.
There’s a huge amount more history in the valley that there’s not room to cover here – each of the farms is a fascinating tale in its own right, for instance – and this just demonstrates the rich story the landscape of the Lakes has to tell.  Little Langdale is considered one of the Lake District’s gems in terms of scenery, but scratching beneath the surface can add a whole new level of interest to your hike; the valley is the perfect place to start an archaeological investigation and walk in the footsteps of our ancestors.  

The rangers work hard with the National Trust regional archaeologist and building teams as well as the tenant farmers to ensure our Scheduled Ancient Monuments and the rest of the amazing history in our landscape is looked after as well as possible.  Sometimes this means excluding livestock or cutting vegetation on a monument to ensure it's not eroded, while other times we need to get the experts in to find out more information or carry out structural work.  Keep reading our blog to find out more about our varied work in the South Lakes.

26 December 2014

Favourite Photos

This weeks blog comes from the South Lakes Upland Footpath team and comprises some of our favourite photographs from 2014.

Our biggest upland footpath project of the year was on the path from Red Tarn to Crinkle Crags and seems a good starting point for pictures.....

Atmospheric bag filling for the Red Tarn to Crinkle Crags Upland path project
(Rock from screes near Gaitscale Gill)

Bag filling up close
(Ian & Luke hard at work)

A pleasant journey home after a good day of bag filling
(On a "crisp" March day)

Our daily commute past Red Tarn for this project was very nice too
Constructing a temporary shed for shelter and storage

Shed construction finished
(Complete with a Crinkle Crags backdrop)
A wet day working on the project
(Although we did have mostly good days during our 2014 upland season)

Our other main project was on Striding Edge. We get to work in beautiful locations but it is fair to say that working on this iconic Helvellyn route was particularly special. It has become a favourite location and we are looking forward to working there again in 2015.....

An atmospheric Striding Edge as we walked along it
(in April for the Helicopter lifts)
'High Spying How' on Striding Edge poking through the  cloud
(Viewed from Helvellyn headwall in September)
Moving rock for the project by helicopter
During some of the helicopter lifts walkers had to wait until a break in flying
(We were very grateful for people's patience & understanding)
Work in progress on Striding Edge
How many Upland Rangers can you spot?

In the winter we come down from the fells and spend most of our time working in (equally beautiful) lower level countryside.

View along Coniston Water
(One we get to enjoy every day)

A very nice lunchtime view from Harrowslack, on the West Shore of Windermere
(Whilst we were building a stone slipway in December)

Bonus Picture: an old favourite from January 2013
(A Wintery Coniston Old Man & Wetherlam viewed from Tarn Hows)


For more pictures or to know more about the daily work of the South Lakes Upland Ranger team why not follow us on Twitter @NTLakesFells.

19 December 2014

The unwelcome guests ....

The sheer diversity of people that stay here demonstrates what a welcoming and inclusive place High Wray is. But sometimes we get a guest that we just wish hadn’t come in the first place and that we can’t wait to get out of the door.

Well, that doesn’t sound very ‘rangery’ does it? But when the guest in question is a bird that files in through our door and gets stuck in the kitchen we hope you’d agree with us. It doesn’t happen too often, but when it does we’re normally alerted by the tapping and flapping sound of the panicking bird desperately trying to batter it’s way out of our windows. This is upsetting for both the bird and us so we try to get it out as quickly as possible.  

Bird in hand

Most of the time we can leave the door open and slowly ‘herd’ the bird towards it, but this doesn’t always work so sometimes we need to capture it. It’s tricky, but there’s certain ways to do this that minimize the chance of harming the bird and once you have them (carefully) in your hand it’s surprising how calm they appear. 

A bird in the hand .... the Wren caught in the kitchen
Sometimes though this may be because they’re a bit dazed as with this Wren that we recently caught, which is why it’s just sat on a hand without flying off. We put this one down outside the door and it had gone 10 minutes later so we think it just needed to get it’s breath back.

The duck makes it's casual entry
It’s not just small birds though. On occasion a local duck has turned up and wandered proprietarily in for a quick look around, before exiting in its own good time. More dramatically, this summer one of our volunteer groups came in to the Acland block kitchen to find a Bullfinch hiding under the kitchen shelves, with a Sparrowhawk perched inside on the windowsill looking mighty peeved! They caught this one by throwing a towel over it and released it outside, where it flew off unharmed – certainly not something you want eyeing up your sausages in the kitchen ….

Volunteers flock in

Most of the time though, our guest are invited. Recently we played host to the Fix the Fells lengthsmen for their annual Xmas bash, an event we’ve been proud to hold here for the last five years now. Around 35 of these fantastic regular volunteers spent a couple of days working with us and the South Lakes upland path team, culminating in a Saturday night feast of fun …. and food, of course. This year the lengthsmen have once again broken all their own records on the amount of volunteering days they’ve contributed to Fix the Fells, so there was plenty to celebrate.

Very welcome guests! The lengthsmen's Xmas quiz in 'full flight'

We’re looking forward to next year now and welcoming many more guests through our doors. And while you can never be sure, we’re hopeful there won’t be any need to throw a towel over any of them!

By Rob Clarke, Basecamp Community Ranger

12 December 2014

Many hands make light work

On Saturday the 15th November 60 volunteers gathered for what's becoming the annual Monk Coniston garden bash.
Monk Coniston was the home of James Garth Marshall who created Tarn Hows, what's less well known is that he landscaped the grounds, created a network of footpaths and planted a collection of specimen trees.
Over the years the views have been lost and the specimen trees buried under more and more rhody - you can't see the (specimen) trees for the woods!

Before -rhody spilling down the bank

After - rhody cleared and burnt

Helen & John who manage the site for HF Holidays (NT tenants) gathered their volunteers and split them into 4 groups, each with a separate mission clearing paths, clearing the old Ha-ha, clearing views - each group did so much clearing that by dinner there were 4 large fires to burn the waste.

Regenerating sycamore was also removed

Another load for the Ha-ha bonfire

Stoking the 'car park' bonfire

Once the areas are cleared the rhody can be managed more easily and Helen's regular garden volunteers can keep on top of the bramble and other vegetation.

Rhody hiding the trees behind

 Views of the trees opened up

 John and Helen said "The formula absolutely works - everyone involved brought tons of enthusiasm and worked tirelessly during the day...... the level of gardening input was only matched by the volume of conversation at dinner in the evening!  The weekend is a fantastic blend of hard work and sociability"

The volunteers

I suspect that after the day's work that all the volunteers put in that they all slept really well no doubt helped by the fact that Barngates brewery donated a barrel a 'cracker' for the evening!

Richard Tanner
Woodland Ranger

5 December 2014

In the frame!

National Trust, Mickleden and the Pike o Stickle
The Langdale Valley looking over Mickleden.
The Pike 'o' Stickle is on the right. See point 2,3 and
4 below with regards to lighting, and composition
I consider myself to be quite fortunate at times with the amount of travelling I do when patrolling the South lakes. I get to see some of the most iconic views of this beautiful landscape from the gentle rolling fells on the western shore of Windermere and Claife, to the carved out valley of the Langdales where the pike 'o' stickle’s dome like obilisque can be seen rising out of the ground.

The other day I was stopped by a gentleman at Blea Tarn, after the initial startle of being approached from behind in one of the quietest spots in our portfolio he went on to ask me how to get to hard knot pass and Wasdale. I gave him his directions and inquired what his journey entailed? ‘photography’ he replied.

As you can imagine, the Lake District is a photography location for professionals and amateurs alike. However this gentleman went on to tell me stories of his past, and how he was hired by popular magazines and newspapers to ‘camp out’ in the wild and get some iconic and moody photos for publication -- A dream job for many. In contrast however, his career went in a different way and now some 20 years or so later he is looking to reinvigorate his interest in landscape photography.

National Trust Tarn Hows near Coniston
The stunning Tarn Hows, #NTtarnhows I used this
strip of bedrock to add foreground interest
to my photo. See point 4 below.
I too have a photography background, and like him I was studio trained using 35mm and medium format cameras. Back then, if you was planning a shoot of any kind your kitbag would have comprised of more than one camera, several lens’s and as much film you could carry (you only had 32 go’s at taking a picture back then kids).

Times have moved on, and now good quality digital cameras are affordable and in many cases come complete with your mobile phone. So what I would like to do is give you some basic observations on taking a memorable picture. I’ve included some of my own photos I have taken whilst on my journey, I don't by any means claim that they are perfect, but they should highlight some of the points I've outlined here. I have also provided links which go into more detail of what I describe here …. And yes, I am very lucky to live and work here.

Get off the track - Look at where you are, don’t take your photograph from the standard point of view on a footpath. If it’s safe, and OK to do so, move closer to your intended target, or maybe get higher, or lower to the ground for some depth.

Lighting - You’ll always get a better lit photograph when the sun is behind you, for more dramatic photography head out early, for what is called the ‘golden hour’, this is the first hour after sunrise, or before sunset. Maybe stay at one of our campsites, to make sure you can get up and out for the sunrise.

Composition - Remember the rule of thirds, in simple terms look at breaking your photograph into 3’s this gives you a much more balanced photo, and is more pleasing to the eye. Click here to learn more about this subject.

Break the rules - Landscape photos don’t need to be taken in a landscape format. Try breaking the rules a little, taking a photo of the fells in portrait gives you a sense of drama and scale. In the square, it gives you a much tighter shot. Most importantly, think about having foreground interest, such as a rock formation, or a dry stone wall maybe?

National Trust, View over Windermere from Claife
And finally, don’t rush! - I see so many people taking photos out of car windows, (The origin of this blog) or running from their car to a fence and back again. To truly say you’ve been there you need to absorb what’s around you, and really feel the connection. Sometimes, I like to keep some moments to myself and not take a picture at all.

I use an Iphone to take my photos, and I make use of the filters that are available. These vary from adding a vignette, increasing the saturation or the brightness and the contrast.

1 December 2014

The tale of 2 ranger's adventure to Wasdale...

You can't beat a good old adventure.  You know the kind, good friends, amazing scenery, hopefully some nice weather.  Well all of these aligned this weekend just in time for Rangers Clair and Sarah to have an adventure over to the National Trust campsite in Wasdale, a splendid wee spot!

Our destination!
Starting from the NT car park at Old Dungeon Ghyll we shouldered our packs and headed on our way.  It was looking to be a beautiful day so our plans included Great End, Scafell Pike and Lingmell before finally arriving at the campsite in Wasdale and our tipi for the night!

The adventure starts!  Heading along Mickledon
Coming off Great End towards Scafell Pike
Lingmell and the last of the sun
As you can tell we were really lucky with the weather, but even if it had been wet that wouldn't have been a problem as the tipi we stayed in was just plain awesome!  If you've not stayed in one before we would highly recommend it.  The one we used on the NT site in Wasdale was all we needed it to be, simple and spacious with a brilliant wood-burner that kicked out the heat.  As it says on their website all you need to bring is what you'd bring if you were camping normally, minus the tent!  More information can be found here.

Getting ready for another day on the fell.
With a toasty night in the tipi and everyone well rested and fueled up on porridge it was time to make our way back to Langdale.  With most of the high fells covered on our way over, we decided to take a more leisurely route home, taking in Sprinkling and Styhead Tarns, Seathwaite Fell and Rossett Pike.  Again the weather was glorious, something we took full advantage of!

Getting the legs going again
Enjoying the sun!

By the time we reached the our car down at Old Dungeon Ghyll our legs were weary and the night well and truly drawing in, but it had been a fabulous adventure and I would encourage anyone with a spare few days to grab a couple of friends and give it a go!  The campsites have lots of great offers on at the moment including 25% off their tipis mid week until 16th December (more info here).  The campsites also offer a green discount to encourage you to arrive minus a car, whether that be by public transport, foot or bike.  So there's no excuse, get out there and find your adventure!

Scafell Pike
Written by Upland Ranger Sarah
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